Seventeen years ago, Aaron Bell returned home after finishing college to work the land at his family’s farm in eastern Maine. Wanting to move the property in a more ecologically friendly direction, he and his wife, Carly DelSignore, successfully converted Tide Mill Organic Farm to organic, locally sourced production. Today they grow vegetables and raise dairy cows, pigs, and chickens on 1,600 acres perched along Maine’s rocky coast. But when Bell, an eighth-generation farmer, applied for...

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